2005 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1600 - Harley Davidson Fairing Project

Harley Davidson Fairing - Introduction

NOTE: Before you begin this project the templates used are for a Nomad with 4" Aeromach risers. The change required for different configurations should be limited to the outer bracket that attaches to the bike. You will need to spend some time regardless of the configuration getting the positioning correct for your application as noted in the downloadable instructions.

The Harley fairing project was a bit overwhelming as I started. The instructions I had seemed very complicated and I had never really done any fabrication before at this level, at least nothing that was going to be used like this. I received advice and a set of instructions and templates from Eric, a friend of my father-in-laws that had completed a similar project. Here is a link to the instructions I was given. I added the images in that were originally links but other than that they are exactly how I was given them, use at your discretion.

Here is a template that can be downloaded of the brackets that I used. The important part of this document is that the long edge of the inner bracket is 14" (inches) long. To properly print this template you will need a printer that is capable of printing on a 11" x 17" page. You will also need to make sure that the page is printed without any scaling. I am not sure where exactly you can get this printed, but I would assume several copy places or office supply stores may have the ability to print this template. Click here for an example of the Adobe Reader print dialogue that you get, the important parts are to make sure the page size if 11" x 17" (also called ledger sized paper) and that scaling is off.

The inner bracket requires a tab to be added to the top end and a couple bends to be made. There are also two tabs that need to be welded to the inner bracket that will allow the mounting of the outer fairing's lower two mount points. The outer bracket will need three holes to correspond to the holes in the inner bracket, but need to be drilled during the placement of the fairing on the bike as per the instructions.

I was also short a few tools. I had the bulk of what I needed but there were a few big things missing. I did the best I could to work around the missing tools and equipment, and for the most part things turned out fairly good. I started with the inner fairing brackets thinking they are hidden so imperfections will not be as important. I managed to get both brackets close to the same, they fit, one needs a couple washers at the upper mount point to trim it out, but overall not too bad I think. The outer brackets were easier, no bending required, but they will show. The end result also not too bad, but they need to be cleaned up. I am considering having the outer bracket chromed.

Harley Davidson Fairing 'Exploded' Parts Sheets

One of the most important things I got was the exploded parts view of the inner and outer fairing from the local Harley Dealer. This gave me a complete list of all the little parts that were required to install the fairing and finish off some of the last pieces after the brackets were complete and the fairing was installed. I have included three files below, one has both the inner and outer parts in one file the other two separate the parts between the inner and outer.

Harley Davidson Fairing Parts Required

Finding the required parts should be much easier with the 'exploded' parts views available above. To make things even easier, here are the extra parts I required to put it all together in two sections, required parts (for my application) and optional parts. I decided to use the Harley headlight assembly, others have modified the fairing to bolt the Kawasaki headlight in. Others have cut the fairing bottom and headlight portion out to fit around the stock mounted Kawasaki headlight, like the bolt on fairing from Premuex, Wide Open Custom Plastic, and others.

Ref # Part Number Quantity Description Required Fairing Parts 10 58949-96 2 Nut, Extension 3 (inner) 2446 2 Screw, 1/4-20 x 5/8" torx socket button hd. Required Headlight Parts 3 4790 4 Screw #10 - 16 x 3/4" You can substitute screws from any hardware store 13 67712-83A 1 Door, Headlamp (supersedes 67712-83) 19 67728-02 1 Bucket Assembly 14 67716-60A 1 Gasket, headlamp door 15 67718-60A 1 Screw, Door Headlamp N/A 67701-08 1 Kit, Clamshell, Retaining Ring includes 67721-48, 67726-71A, 67732-71B 21 67780-60 1 Spring, Bottom 22 67778-60 1 Top Spring 24 68342-05 1 Headlamp Assembly Optional Parts 23 68329-03 1 Bulb 25 68390-05 1 Boot 33 (inner) 75106-96A 2 Plug, Gauge Port 34 (inner) 76286-96 1 Glove Box (comes with clip nuts) 35 (inner) 77046-96A 2 Cover, Speaker Opening (will need some #10 self tapping screws)

I decided to go with the Harley headlight bulb as well just to complete the assembly, leaving my Kawasaki Headlight intact for a quick change back if required.

Custom H-D Fairing Bracket Fabrication - Version 1

As I started this project I actually had a very different requirement than the instructions covered. The instructions were for a Nomad with stock risers and I installed Aeromach risers on my bike. This simple change significantly alters the outer brackets so the templates that Eric provided became version 1 of the install. I actually liked the overall position of the version 1 install for the most part, but I was not completely happy so I thought I would try again. With the V1 brackets and the installed risers the fairing was sitting fairly high and there was considerable space between the signal light bar and the bottom of the fairing. The fairing also sat approximately 1" forward of the risers. Here are pictures of the version 1 brackets bolted to the bike.

Version 1

Custom H-D Fairing Bracket Fabrication - Version 2

For Version 2 I actually did not change a lot. I took 1/2" off the forward part of the outer bracket to move the inner fairing closer to the risers. With the V1 brackets there was approximately 1" of space between the risers and the fairing, after the modification there was around 1/2". I also lowered the fairing about 3/4" to lessen the empty space above the signal light bar. The inner fairing is now slightly below the top of the risers, but I like the position and do not feel that the risers will interfere with the future stereo install. Here are the Version 2 pictures both clamped on and bolted on after drilling the mounting holes in the outer brackets.

Version 2 -Clamped

Version 2 - Bolted

Custom H-D Fairing Bracket Fabrication - Version 2 with CWI Light Bar

I also needed to fabricate two brackets that will alter the mounting for the CWI light bar. The light bar is basically two separate lights. They mount to the lower windshield and the upper bolt of the 'lower' wind deflector mount. I may have these chromed as well.

  

I am not sure if I like them yet, so I may try larger stock. If I can't make some that I am satisfied with I will likely get them redone at a machine shop using mine as templates for the shop to make 'clean' versions.

Version 2 - Bolted with CWI 'Light Bar' V1

Custom H-D Fairing Bracket Fabrication - Version 3 with Lower Tabs and Revised CWI Light Bar

The first version of the CWI light bar brackets were made out of 1 1/4" stock. I thought the width looked a bit strange when the lights were mounted, so I made new ones out of 2" stock. This allowed me to shape the bracket to more or less match the light bar and the mount points on the bike. I think it was worth the effort, I am much happier with the final version.

  

I also had to add two tabs to attach the lower part of the outer fairing to the brackets. I actually missed this part in the instructions, noticing it only as I started to edit the document to adjust it for the issues I found with the procedure.

  

These are a lot trickier to do, to get them in the right place, at the right angle, with the mount hole in the right place as well was a chore. I ended up filling the original holes I drilled and re-drilling them after the mount holes just did not work at all.

In the end one was at pretty much the perfect angle, the other was not, so I put a bend in one to adjust. I thought about redoing the mount, but in the end this part will never show. I will made some spacers and each side ended up taking the same size spacer, 5/8" so I think the end result is pretty good if both tabs are fairly even.

Version 3 - Bolted with CWI 'Light Bar' - Final

Update March 21, 2009 - I am currently waiting for the gauges to come in. I ordered them from NAPA with a 3 week delivery time. They should hopefully arrive this week. I am also waiting for the rest of the headlight parts to come in. I purchased the bucket and mount from the local H-D dealer and paid 2x as much as I could have ordered them for so (but I wanted them quickly so I could move forward) the rest of the parts are on order and scheduled to ship March 27. I also ordered a new chrome front plate for the forks. The plan I have is to take the original one and cut it down so it will fit behind the fairing, covering up the area below the fairing and above the signal light bar. Once I have that in place, I will then decide if I will move the signal lights up a inch or so to close that gap. I am hoping the chrome in there will do the trick.

Paint is another issue, I was basically ready to send it out to paint, just a few details to take care of, but the current economy is not leaving me feeling too safe with things so I think I will try and paint it myself. It is a relatively small project so hopefully it will all work out.

Update May 5, 2009 - I ended up cancelling my order at NAPA for the gauges. After 4 weeks they still were not in and they were saying at least another 5 weeks which was ridiculous in my opinion so I purchased them on eBay and had them in 7 business days. What a joke, you try and buy local, but this is the service level it seems. I have the gauges installed and I am currently working on the wiring now. I made a adapter plate to mount the 2 5/8 fuel gauge in the 3 3/8" hole and the others all fit pretty well with no adjustments. I also have paint on the way from BestBuy Auto Parts in Quebec, they are the Colorrite distributor in Canada for matched bike paint I guess. I decided to paint the fairing to match the Tour Pak which is Harley Davison black pearl. The paint should be here by the end of the week. I also decided to complete the stereo, so I will post part information and pictures of the install of the electronics soon as well. I have 90% of the stuff needed to complete the project, so hopefully I can get the fairing painted in the next week or so and then focus on getting this project wrapped up. I really do not want to disassemble the bike to do this work until I can finish it now, riding season is short here and I don't want to waste it!

I also posted a new section at the top of this page with a 11" x 17" template sheet for the brackets I made to mount the fairing.

The project is complete. I rode all summer with the fairing on and loved it. It was the best mod I have done to the Nomad. The only issue I had was my first tach died on my first trip, causing one coil to stop working. I was in a panic because I could not get a hold of the rider I was meeting for the trip and was basically running on one cylinder, with no hope of making it. After about twenty minutes of frantic searching, I noticed that the tach was not working. Removed the tach signal lead from the coil, and was back in business. I have since replaced the Stewart Warner tach with the AutoMeter ProCycle tach. Here is the finished bike.